Since I decided to use the D16A6 oil pan, I had to also use the D16A6 oil pickup tube. I thought that it this would be no problem, but upon installing the pickup, I saw that the support tabs were in different spots. Argh.
So, the plan was to install 2 studs to properly support the pickup tube. The main cap girdle had already been torqued to spec, so I didn't want to remove it. Instead, I masked off the exposed areas and tipped the engine on its side.
I wanted the holes to be as straight as possible, so I leveled the engine and then taped a small level to my drill.
I could not get a 35mm M6 stud, so I had to get a 35mm M6 bolt and cut the bolt head off. After filing it, drilling the hole, tapping the hole, using loctite red on the threads, I had this result.
Here is the end result. I used ten M6 flat washers under the tabs to give them proper support and then torqued the nuts down to spec. It came out great!
Now it's time to drill a hole in the oil pan for the turbocharger's oil return line. I needed a 7/8" hole to accomodate the Earl's style -10 AN bulkhead fitting. On both sides of the pan, I sealed things using a "stratoseal". The stratoseals are basically washers that a rubber o-ring fused into the center.
Finding a nice 7/8" drill bit that didn't cost an arm and a leg was not easy. In addition, most drill bits leave a hole that is "stop sign" shaped. A buddy of mine recommended the "unibit" since it leaves perfectly round holes. I got this bit brand new off of eBay for $19. Woohoo!
The unibit left a nice, perfectly round hole.
This is the -10 AN bulkhead fitting I used. I sawed off the back nipple of the fitting since it wasn't needed.
Here is the fitting after installation. I used a generous amount of Hondabond on the metal portion of the stratoseals.
Here is a look from the inside of the pan. I had to do a little bit of grinding to get the bottom of the fitting to clear the windage tray. Air tools rule!
All this thing needs is manifolds and a few other small things and then it is done!
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