Oil Pan Install
Normally, you wouldn't devote a whole page to installing an oil pan, but
this was not your typical oil pan install. I decided to use the oil pan
from a different engine and that complicated things a bit. Additionally,
the oil pan had to be fitted with a way to accept the turbo's oil return
These are the two oil pans that I had to choose from. The pan that cam
on this engine is on the right. The pan that I decided to use is on the
left. I decided to use the D16A6 pan because it had 3 significant advantages:
1) The bottom of the pan is flat (the Integra's is slanted). The slanted pan makes the engine always want to fall over when it's resting on the ground.
2) The CRX pan is not as tall as the Integra pan. This gives me about 2 additional inches of ground clearance
3) The CRX pan concentrates the oil around the pickup baffle.
Since I decided to use the D16A6 oil pan, I had to also use the D16A6 oil
pickup tube. I thought that it this would be no problem, but upon installing the pickup, I saw that the support tabs were in different spots. Argh.
So, the plan was to install 2 studs to properly support the pickup tube. The main cap girdle had already been torqued to spec, so I didn't want to remove it. Instead, I masked off the exposed areas and tipped the engine on its side.
I wanted the holes to be as straight as possible, so I leveled the engine
and then taped a small level to my drill.
I could not get a 35mm M6 stud, so I had to get a 35mm M6 bolt and cut the bolt head off. After filing it, drilling the hole, tapping the hole, using loctite red on the threads, I had this result.
Here is the end result. I used ten M6 flat washers under the tabs to give
them proper support and then torqued the nuts down to spec. It came out great!
Now it's time to drill a hole in the oil pan for the turbocharger's oil return
line. I needed a 7/8" hole to accomodate the Earl's style -10 AN bulkhead
fitting. On both sides of the pan, I sealed things using a "stratoseal". The
stratoseals are basically washers that a rubber o-ring fused into the center.
Finding a nice 7/8" drill bit that didn't cost an arm and a leg was not easy.
In addition, most drill bits leave a hole that is "stop sign" shaped. A buddy of mine recommended the "unibit" since it leaves perfectly round holes. I got this bit brand new off of eBay for $19. Woohoo!
The unibit left a nice, perfectly round hole.
This is the -10 AN bulkhead fitting I used. I sawed off the back
nipple of the fitting since it wasn't needed.
Here is the fitting after installation. I used a generous amount of
Hondabond on the metal portion of the stratoseals.
Here is a look from the inside of the pan. I had to do a little bit of
grinding to get the bottom of the fitting to clear the windage tray. Air
All this thing needs is manifolds and a few other small things and then
it is done!
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